Dirty Mozart 5.10a

Leiðir

“The easiest and longest way through the whole wall to the summit. Mostly good, harmonic rock with dirty moss overlay. Exceptionell good gear all the way.
P1 (30m, 6a): Start under the roof left of the honecombs wirh #4 under the roof and #0.4 on the right, then move a bit spicy around the corner to #3 and wonderful R8. Continue up the crack wirh #1, #2 and #1. From here take a small runout to the belay on #0.3 and R4.”
P2 (20m, 5a): Straight up the crack with #0.5, #2, #0.75, #3, #0.75 to the belay in a small notch on #0.5, #0.4 and R3.
P3 (30m, 4a): straight up the final wall with #2 and #1, then 20m of easy terrain to the belay on 2 bolts.

80m, 6a; E2 5b
FA: Martin Feistl and Vera Bakker 09.07.2023 onsight

Crag Norðurfjörður
Sector Dægrardvalar svæði
Type trad
First ascent
Markings

6 related routes

Usain Boltless 5.12d

“The hardest route in the area and it goes on trad! Perfect rock, perfect line on the arete and very safe. Reminds to the well known “Tribe” in Cadarese, but a lot easier. Starting left of ‘Fiðlarinn í þakinu’ placing a red Petzl Skyhook and tensioning downwards to a R5 before traversing the roof to the left to a #2 and #3 and mantle up. Easier terrain with a R4 and a #0.4 right below the second roof. Placing a #0.75 from the no-hand-rest and traversing on the jugs very airy to the left. Here place first the #0.3, second the #0.75 behind the jug your hanging on. The crux is a boulder of 3 hard moves on perfect crimps over the roof and a bit runout to a yellow Ballnut and #0.3. Easy and a bit mossy to a small ledge which takes a #2 and to the anchor of “Heavy Beethoven” with #0.3 and R6. Did you know Usain Bolt makes Raggea now? Unfortunately headpoint, but now after it has been first ascended everybody can give a safe ground-up try. No need for fear, I swear.
FA: Martin Feistl 08.07.2023 headpoint

25m, 7c; E7 6c

Heavy Beethoven 5.10c

The obvious and straight line to the top of the freestanding tower in the middle of the crag. 2 pitches, first (6b+) like Heavy Metal, the second (5c+) like Beethoven. Starting with the obvious crispy and loose honeycombs you have to climb like a cat. Even if you don’t want to believe it, it is possible to climb this without ripping out the holds and it is also recommended because otherwise the beautiful structures would be destroyed. Then right around the roof with the crux and 5 pieces of good to bad gear below and following the wet leftwards leaning corner to the belay on the foot of the tower. Then following the thin crag with lots of hidden jugs and good rock to the top of the pillar with a bolt. Hope this part of the crag (icluding the big ledge with great opportunities to make a safe belay will stay trad because it’s made for it and something very special you can’t find anywhere.”
P1 (30m, 6b+): #2, #0.5, #0.75+#0.5, #3+#0.2+#0.3, #2+#0.3, #1+R5, R3+R2, belay on #0.4+R6+R4
P2 (20m, 5c+): #2, R7, #1+#0.5, R7, #0.3
FA: Martin Feistl and Felix Bub 07.07.2023 onsight

50m, 6b+; E4 6a

Dirty Mozart 5.10a

“The easiest and longest way through the whole wall to the summit. Mostly good, harmonic rock with dirty moss overlay. Exceptionell good gear all the way.
P1 (30m, 6a): Start under the roof left of the honecombs wirh #4 under the roof and #0.4 on the right, then move a bit spicy around the corner to #3 and wonderful R8. Continue up the crack wirh #1, #2 and #1. From here take a small runout to the belay on #0.3 and R4.”
P2 (20m, 5a): Straight up the crack with #0.5, #2, #0.75, #3, #0.75 to the belay in a small notch on #0.5, #0.4 and R3.
P3 (30m, 4a): straight up the final wall with #2 and #1, then 20m of easy terrain to the belay on 2 bolts.

80m, 6a; E2 5b
FA: Martin Feistl and Vera Bakker 09.07.2023 onsight

Sundance 7a 5.11d

Leið númer 5.

Leið lengst hægra megin á Dægrardvalar svæðinu. Nokkuð stutt miðað við aðrar leiðir á svæðinu en samt þokkalega löng á íslenskan mælikvarða. Smá snúin og aðeins í fangið.

FF: Rory Harrison, júlí 2022

Fiðlarinn í þakinu 7c+ 5.13a

Leið númer 2.

Fyrsta 5.13 Vestfjarða.

Leiðin er í smá hvilft í miðjum sector, vinstra megin við Ísbjarnablús. Leiðin fer nokkuð beint upp lóðréttan vegg áður en komið er í þak. Þakið leiðir mann aðeins til hliðar, upp á annan lóðréttan vegg og svo í annað þak. Leiðin endar á aðeins auðveldara klifri upp í akkeri.

FF: Jafet Bjarkar Björnsson, júlí 2021
Boltuð af Þórði Sævarssyni.

Jaja Ding Dong 6a 5.9

Leið númer 1 á mynd.

Tveggja spanna leið vinstra megin í Dægrardvalar svæðinu.

Frá veginum er auðvelt að koma auga á “svitablettinn”, stóran svartan bleytu flekk ofarlega, Jaja Ding Dong er rétt hægra megin við hann.

Fyrsta spönn byrjar í grunnri kverk og færir sig svo út á vegg og helst nokkuð jöfn upp á sillu, ca 25m. Frá stans á syllunni er hliðrað örlítið til vinstri og augljósum veikleika fylgt upp á næstu syllu þaðan sem eru aðeins örfáar hreyfingar upp á topp.

P1: 5.9 25m 9 boltar
P2: 5.7/8 20m 6 boltar.

FF: Jónas G. Sigurðsson & Rory Harrison ágúst 2020

Leave a Reply

Skip to toolbar