“The hardest route in the area and it goes on trad! Perfect rock, perfect line on the arete and very safe. Reminds to the well known “Tribe” in Cadarese, but a lot easier. Starting left of ‘Fiðlarinn í þakinu’ placing a red Petzl Skyhook and tensioning downwards to a R5 before traversing the roof to the left to a #2 and #3 and mantle up. Easier terrain with a R4 and a #0.4 right below the second roof. Placing a #0.75 from the no-hand-rest and traversing on the jugs very airy to the left. Here place first the #0.3, second the #0.75 behind the jug your hanging on. The crux is a boulder of 3 hard moves on perfect crimps over the roof and a bit runout to a yellow Ballnut and #0.3. Easy and a bit mossy to a small ledge which takes a #2 and to the anchor of “Heavy Beethoven” with #0.3 and R6. Did you know Usain Bolt makes Raggea now? Unfortunately headpoint, but now after it has been first ascended everybody can give a safe ground-up try. No need for fear, I swear.
FA: Martin Feistl 08.07.2023 headpoint

25m, 7c; E7 6c

The obvious and straight line to the top of the freestanding tower in the middle of the crag. 2 pitches, first (6b+) like Heavy Metal, the second (5c+) like Beethoven. Starting with the obvious crispy and loose honeycombs you have to climb like a cat. Even if you don’t want to believe it, it is possible to climb this without ripping out the holds and it is also recommended because otherwise the beautiful structures would be destroyed. Then right around the roof with the crux and 5 pieces of good to bad gear below and following the wet leftwards leaning corner to the belay on the foot of the tower. Then following the thin crag with lots of hidden jugs and good rock to the top of the pillar with a bolt. Hope this part of the crag (icluding the big ledge with great opportunities to make a safe belay will stay trad because it’s made for it and something very special you can’t find anywhere.”
P1 (30m, 6b+): #2, #0.5, #0.75+#0.5, #3+#0.2+#0.3, #2+#0.3, #1+R5, R3+R2, belay on #0.4+R6+R4
P2 (20m, 5c+): #2, R7, #1+#0.5, R7, #0.3
FA: Martin Feistl and Felix Bub 07.07.2023 onsight

50m, 6b+; E4 6a

“The easiest and longest way through the whole wall to the summit. Mostly good, harmonic rock with dirty moss overlay. Exceptionell good gear all the way.
P1 (30m, 6a): Start under the roof left of the honecombs wirh #4 under the roof and #0.4 on the right, then move a bit spicy around the corner to #3 and wonderful R8. Continue up the crack wirh #1, #2 and #1. From here take a small runout to the belay on #0.3 and R4.”
P2 (20m, 5a): Straight up the crack with #0.5, #2, #0.75, #3, #0.75 to the belay in a small notch on #0.5, #0.4 and R3.
P3 (30m, 4a): straight up the final wall with #2 and #1, then 20m of easy terrain to the belay on 2 bolts.

80m, 6a; E2 5b
FA: Martin Feistl and Vera Bakker 09.07.2023 onsight

“Nice and easy to protect crack line with a bit of a loose start to the right of a bolted anchor and above maybe a marking bolt. In the headwall right of “Grettisbeltið”. Takes in a perfect row #0.5, #0.75, #1, #2 and #3 with the same belay like “Queens Gambit” on #4.

30m, 6a+; E1 5b
FA: Felix Bub 10.07.2023 onsight

“2 pitch climb which attacks the obvious orange arete in the upper part of the sector. First pitch a bit mossy and runout but solid. The second pitch is the meat of the route and very airy with a bit of fiddly gear.”
P1 (30m, 6a): Start in the wet corner a few steps to the left of “Grettisbeltið” and go up to a #4 and #0.5. Cimb the corner to a yellow and red Ballnut behind a hollow flake with a good #0.5 right afterwards. Long but easy runout to the nice and grassy belay ledge on #1, #0.4 and R3.
P2 (25m, 6b): Climb the corner above the belay to a #0.3 and traverse to the left to the arete. Perfect R3+yellow Ballnut here before climbing always on the arete one hand on the left and the other one on the right side passing #0.2, #0.5 and #0.75 to easier terrain. #2 before the belay on #4 or rope around the big rock to the right.

55m, 6b; E2 5b

FA: 10.07.2023, P1 Martin Feistl onsight, P2 Felix Bub headpoint

“Together with “Usain Boltless” and “Queens Gambit” the most enjoyable route in the area. Extraordinary athletic climbing in the first pitch, spicy face climbing above a skyhook in the second pitch.”
P1 (35m, 6b+): Start on the foot of the pillar, and reach via the slab the jug rail which comes from the right. Mantle onto the small gufel and place some small good gear (R6+#0.3 and R5+#0.2). Reach to the obvious jug on the edge of the roof and traverse to the left, placing a #0.2 before you mantle up. #0.5 here and easier terrain with one small overhang (#3) and #0.3 to the belay on #2 and #1.
P2: (25m 6c): Go slightly right to the foot of the corner placing a good #0.4 on the left. Step into the corner and place one red Petzl Skyhook and a bad #0.3 before you run it out to the glory jugs on the left. No belay, just a nice meadow.

60m, 6c, E3 5c

FA: Martin Feistl with Felix Bub 10.07.2023 onsight

“To the first bolt of “Draugakálfurinn Slorsi” (#0.75), then heading left into the roof with #0.5 and #0.4, to the edge on the left on sandy jugs with sling and mantle over the roof to the ledge (#0.5 and sling). Now easier but with lots of moss tending leftwards (#2 and #1+#0.75) and runout to the top of “Þorskastríðið”. First ascended in the rain, mostly good gear. Zula is the name of the  boat with which we sailed from Denmark to Iceland.”

25m E3 5b

FA: Martin Feistl 06.07.2023 onsight

Tæknileg og krefjandi leið alla leið upp á topp. 6 boltar + akkeri. Sirka 14 metrar.

Trad leið vinstramegin frá englar í enginu. Klifrar chimneyið og upp veggin til akkeri fyrir Englar.

Leið nr: 3

Fer út á nefið en heldur sér hægra megin

, topout.

FA: Sólon

Leið nr: 2

Leiðin fer upp miðjuna á yfirhangin

, topout.

FA: Sólon

Leið nr: 1

Sama byrjun og Human Behavior, topout.

FA: Sólon

5.10b(?)

Mjög skemtilegt stutt leið á nyja sektor Stardals – Efri Vesturhamrar. Sektorin er upp gilin milli miðvestur og vesturhamrar.
Leiðinni bryja hjá 2 storir blokkar, standa varlega á blokkið og farðu beint upp með brúninni og sprungunni. Klifra til mjög goðir grípum, hvildir og farðu hratt upp síðasta vegginn á kantum í stórt gríp og auðvelda frágang. Svolítið djörf í milli en mjög góðir trygging undir kruxin ef þú finnur það.

F.f. Ólafur Þór Kristinsson, a.f. Robert Askew (both led)

Gula leiðin á myndinni. fyrst klifruð af Valda?

Rauða leiðin á myndinni. Byrjar í undirgripi og fer upp í nokkra kanta

bláa leiðin á myndinni. byrjar sitjandi mjög kósí

Leiðin byrjar í tveimur undirgripum. hentar vel fyrir langa klifrara.

(elimimation af Great balls of fire 6b+)