Sjávarniður 5.5

Leiðir

Leið 1 á mynd.
UK: Severe, US: 5.5/.6, Íslensk: 5.4. ⭐⭐
140 m (klifraði í 2 spönn með 70 m linar)

The name comes from the sound of breaking waves at the coast which can be heard from the cliff.
Follows an obvious left trending diagonal crack almost to the top of the cliff. Mostly very easy slab climbing, gear is found where it’s needed.
Spönn 1: Start below an obvious corner and overlap, climb to the corner and follow this (avoiding wet streaks) to an obvious dyke and crack on the left, use this to gain the slab (alternatively gain the slab earlier through an obvious step in the overlap – this is probably drier and easier though may have loose blocks). Follow the slab to the diagonal crack and follow this to belay on a jammed block (60-65 m).
Spönn 2: Continue along the diagonal crack leftwards to pass through the next overlap on black rock. Follow the crack for a few more metres then head straight up the slab above on the driest rock you can find, to pass through the next overlap on reasonable holds with good gear. Finish up the slab to belay on easy ground.

To walk off, scramble up to the grass and traverse climbers left (east) to an easy grassy gully at the far (climbers) left of the crag.

F.f. Robert Askew and Catherine Gallagher, July 2021.

Kate on easy ground in the upper section of pitch 1
Kate having just climbed through the overlap at the top of pitch 2.
Crag Hvaldalur
Type trad
First ascent
Markings

4 related routes

Flight of the Fulmar 5.9

Klifurleið upp Stapann í Stapavík, aðeins austar en Hvaldalur.

It starts with some fun and easy face climbing on the beach side, then turn the corner to the right to a crack. Some good gear placements then a small runout to the top. Probably 5.9 overall. The belayer might get wet depending on the tides

Rappell off the most prominent corner shown here, just by going off either side of the corner. Then pull the rope from a little ways up the beach. So spikes or anything left at the top

FF: Casey Elliot & Cass Bindrup, summer 2022

Ísbíllinn lifir enn 5.6

Á milli Thyme for tea og Sjávarniður

Þrjár spannir, 5.4, 5.6 og 5.5

FF: Erla Guðný Helgadóttir og Michael Walker, ágúst 2022

Thyme for Tea 5.8

Leið 2 á mynd.
UK: VS 4c/5a, US/Ís: 5.8. ⭐⭐⭐⭐
180 m.
Klifraði í 3 spönn 65 m, 60 m, 50 m. (easy scramble up around 10 m to finish)

Named after all of the wild thyme growing in the valley.
Climbs fairly directly up the tallest section of the crag through the easiest ground. Start at the lowest section of the cliff, about 10 m right of a small leaning block cave (it is also possible to start from this block at the same grade).
Spönn 1: (4c/5a (French 5a)) Climb direct up dry rock to the large overlap and climb to the obvious corner to the left (with less than 70 m lines might be best to belay near here). Climb the corner with good gear to gain the slab (crux). Follow the slab (unprotectable) to cracked rocks and blocks to build a belay.
Spönn 2: (4b/c (French 4c)) Climb up mossy rock to gain a slab and a rounded shoulder above, follow this on easy ground all the the way to an obvious right-facing, black corner through the next large overlap. Climb the corner (crux, well protected) to a nice ledge and good belay stance.
Spönn 3: (4b (French 4b)) Gain the slab directly above the belay, traverse diagonally rightwards though a small cracked overlap (might be some loose rock) and continue to gain an obvious corner. Climb this (crux) and continue up the slab above to finish.
Scramble up to the grass.

Descend as for 1, to the climbers left.

F.f Robert Askew and Catherine Gallagher, July 2021.

1, Climbing easy ground to gain a rounded shoulder on P2. 2, Beautiful belay stance at the top of P2. 3, Kate on the final slab after climbing through the final overlap P3

Sjávarniður 5.5

Leið 1 á mynd.
UK: Severe, US: 5.5/.6, Íslensk: 5.4. ⭐⭐
140 m (klifraði í 2 spönn með 70 m linar)

The name comes from the sound of breaking waves at the coast which can be heard from the cliff.
Follows an obvious left trending diagonal crack almost to the top of the cliff. Mostly very easy slab climbing, gear is found where it’s needed.
Spönn 1: Start below an obvious corner and overlap, climb to the corner and follow this (avoiding wet streaks) to an obvious dyke and crack on the left, use this to gain the slab (alternatively gain the slab earlier through an obvious step in the overlap – this is probably drier and easier though may have loose blocks). Follow the slab to the diagonal crack and follow this to belay on a jammed block (60-65 m).
Spönn 2: Continue along the diagonal crack leftwards to pass through the next overlap on black rock. Follow the crack for a few more metres then head straight up the slab above on the driest rock you can find, to pass through the next overlap on reasonable holds with good gear. Finish up the slab to belay on easy ground.

To walk off, scramble up to the grass and traverse climbers left (east) to an easy grassy gully at the far (climbers) left of the crag.

F.f. Robert Askew and Catherine Gallagher, July 2021.

Kate on easy ground in the upper section of pitch 1
Kate having just climbed through the overlap at the top of pitch 2.

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